Feature: Read This Before You Buy A Tudor Black Bay 58 In Precious Metal

Tudor fans will have rejoiced at the release of the Black Bay Pro at Watches and Wonders, not just because it’s one of the best-looking models in the brand’s history but because it might steal some of the Black Bay 58s thunder.

Make no mistake, the original Black Bay 58 is a knock-out watch. Those creamy gilt-edged markers, that unguarded big crown, the crimson triangle on the matt-black bezel—it’s a modestly priced watch with the look and size of a vintage Rolex yet blessed with 21st-century build quality. There's also the popular blue version and the green-bezel Harrods model.

The original Black Bay 58 in stainless steel—great value, stunning looks, extremely popular!

Alas, it’s also in danger of becoming one of those watches that’s drifting from merely popular to irritatingly ubiquitous, popping up on Instagram more times than bum shots of the Kardashian sisters.

Several posts on social media this last week have been about people considering trading in their Black Bay 58s for the new Pro model, a GMT which at 39mm is the same size as the Black Bay 58 and boasts the handsome looks of the coveted 1970s Rolex Explorer II.

But to all those people looking to offload their Black Bay 58s—or any other older Black Bay for that matter—a few lesser-spotted versions exist that trump your common-or-garden black- or blue-bezel models. These three ‘podium’ Black Bay 58s in gold, silver and bronze are admittedly more expensive but they’re far rarer beasts and differ in more ways than mere case material.

Let’s take a closer look at this very cool trio of precious metal Black Bay 58s and the differences between not only the three of them but their plain-Jane stainless-steel sibling…

A First For Tudor

Back in 2016, Tudor released a bronze, 43mm version of the first-generation Black Bay, a move that raised eyebrows since neither Tudor nor its older sibling Rolex had ever made a watch in this metal.

It followed this up in 2021 with a bronze version of the newer, smaller Black Bay 58, which was followed by well-received silver and 18k yellow-gold versions.

These, too, were company firsts for Tudor, which by this point had kicked the rather infuriating “poor man’s Rolex” tag into the gutter and forged its own identity.

Is Bronze Best?

The bronze version, the brand’s first all-bronze watch, which retails for £3,560, is the only one—including the steel versions—with a dial variation. It features bold Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, rather than all dot and baton markers, adding to the legibility and giving it a slightly more contemporary feel.

Spot the difference! The bronze version's dial features Arabic numerals

Since the bronze version is the only one that comes on a bracelet, it’s also the only one of the trio which has Tudor’s new T-fit rapid adjustment system, allowing the wearer to adjust the bracelet length in five positions. Not even the latest steel version has that, which is a pity as the lack of bracelet adjustment options is one of the few gripes people have with it.

So far, so good. Some potential buyers, however, might have reservations about the unpredictability of bronze. Tudor is happy to state that the colour “evolves to match its user’s habits”—meaning the patina that develops will be different with every watch.

But in as little as a week or two, your watch will look different to the shiny one you bought new from the store. And if you buy pre-worn, your watch will already have a patina from its previous wearer or wearers—something that some people will appreciate and others will find borderline ‘ick!’.

Finally, unlike the gold and silver versions, the bronze Black Bay 58 has a plain, closed caseback, just like the stainless steel models. A tad boring, but at least you can put an engraving on it, should you wish.

Silver Seduction

Silver was commonly used for the ornate pocket watches of yesteryear, which were less prone to being bashed about, but when wristwatches became the norm, silver was replaced with the more durable—and duller—steel and precious metals. These days, the use of silver for wristwatch cases seems weirdly anachronistic. A bit like going into your local bar and being served beer in a pewter tankard.

So, what on Earth is Tudor playing at here?

Well, apart from silver’s strong novelty factor, there’s the fact that it’s actually shinier than gold, with high reflectivity. It’s also 30 per cent denser than steel, giving it the satisfying weightiness of a high-end gold or platinum luxury watch but for a fraction of the cost.

The launch of the silver version baffled many, but the metal was once commonly used for pocket watches

Pure silver is too soft and tarnish-prone to be used for almost anything, especially watches, so most silver is actually an alloy known as sterling silver (92.5 per cent silver) which contains other metals. As the Black Bay 58 925, to give it its full title, hasn’t been out for very long, only time will tell how well it ages when worn next to the skin on a regular basis. Reassuringly, Tudor claims its proprietary alloy will keep it nice and shiny for years to come.

In terms of aesthetics, the silver version, which only comes on a fabric or leather strap, sports a matching taupe dial and bezel and has the same dot and baton hour markers as the steel and yellow-gold versions.

There’s also an open caseback, only found on this and the gold version, revealing the unremarkable-looking automatic movement.

At £3,400, it’s actually cheaper than the bronze one at retail, due to the strap-only option, plus there’s that irresistible X-factor of a seldom-used metal that's a wonderful throwback to a bygone age.

The Most Luxurious Tudor Ever Made

Last but not least is the 18k yellow-gold version. A gold Tudor! It almost seems a contradiction in terms since Tudor is supposed to be an affordable alternative to Rolex. However this is priced at a smidgen under £13k at retail, which is more than a brand-new steel Daytona.

It would have cost even more if teamed with a gold bracelet, but the price is kept down by putting it on an alligator leather strap with a complementary fabric option in green and gold to match the olive-coloured dial and bezel.

Is an 18k yellow-gold Tudor a contradiction terms? Maybe, but it's still a beauty

Besides that, it’s the same as the silver version, with an open caseback revealing the automatic in-house movement within.

Of course, 18k gold also retains its lustre and shine in ways that silver and bronze can only dream about, hence the higher cost. Oh, and there’s also the smug satisfaction of knowing you’re wearing the most luxurious Tudor around—unless, of course, some clown out there has customised one by covering it with a load of rubies and diamonds.

The Movement

Powered by the automatic in-house MT5400, all three precious-metal Black Bay 58s have a slightly different movement to the MT5402 found in the stainless-steel version. But the difference is minimal. When Tudor decided to give two of the precious metal watches an exhibition caseback, they realised that the movement needed to fill the case for aesthetic purposes, so they simply took the MT5402 and gave it a wider baseplate. As with the MT5402, it’s COSC-certified and boasts the same 70-hour power reserve.

The MT5400 is visible through the sapphire caseback of the gold and silver models only

Rolex has always given open casebacks a wide berth, barring the occasional Cellini model, so this is another way Tudor is distinguishing itself from its sibling, and we’re certainly in favour of that.

All the same, a precious-metal rotor to match the case might have been a neat touch if you’re going to put such an austere-looking calibre on full display. Maybe engrave it with a Tudor rose pattern? A few Geneva stripes?

Just a suggestion, Tudor, for when you get back to the Black Bay 58 drawing board…

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